IN 2009 Granny Smith Natural Food Market was named organic grocer of the year by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide’s authors Helen Greenwood and John Newton. The 2011 Guide says – generously – of us: ‘If you’re a good customer, you get first crack at the ultimate in local produce: eggs from owner Peter Kenyon’s chooks just up the road. Peter has always striven to stock seasonal and local as well as organic, and that’s why you’ll see honeys from a local beekeeper and lots of produce from Mangrove Mountain biodynamic farmer Michael Champion, (eggs) from Peter Clinch, as well as Alf Sorbello’s heritage tomatoes – loose or in punnets -  from the Hawkesbury. The only gripe we have this this beautifully groomed and stocked shop is that it’s a long way from where we live. Lucky locals.’ If you don’t yet have a copy of the Guide, go to smhshop.com.au

BEES pollinate up to 90 per cent of the world’s food crops. Without them, most of the foods we eat would disappear. Basically, we’d starve. So the ongoing issue about the dieback of bees in many countries should be ringing alarm bells  loudly in our ears.

The increasing use of mobile telephones and the subsequent rise in the usage of this broadcast wavelength has been examined. Chemical use has been studied. Most fingers seem to point to the overuse of certain chemicals known as neonicotinoid pesticides and, with our very food supply at stake, erring on the side of caution in surely the only sensible route to take.

You can help by signing a web petition managed by Avaaz, an international, web-based, ‘people power’ organisation, to support a ban on the use of neonicotinoids in the European Union and the United States until independent research can prove conclusively that these are safe. Nearly one million concerned citizens have now signed it, urging legislators to act.

Link
Sign the on-line petition

WITH a State Government slating great chunks of north-west and south-west Sydney for urban development, we are in trouble. How do we feed ourselves when the farmland is gone? There is an assumption upon which such development relies that there will always be food available from somewhere, even from abroad. Many are beginning to question the wisdom of basing our future food security on imported foods, however action may not come quickly enough to achieve any meaningful response.

Local governments in western Sydney are concerned about urban development across local farmland but State and Federal governments have been rather slower to acknowledge the problem. A spread of articles on the issue, published by the Sun Herald in 2010, includes an interactive map that demonstrates clearly the importance of the Sydney basin to various crops.

Many of Granny Smith Natural Food Market’s favourite suppliers feel pressure from such land development. Where will our beautiful tomatoes come from if they need to be brought in from more than 1000 kilometres away? Could they possibly be as fresh or taste as good as Alf and Lee Sorbello’s from just up the road? What about Michael Champion’s magnificent salad greens? Peter Clinch’s chickens? With more and more housing covering the Sydney basin and ever greater urban run-off, how long can we expect clean local oysters and fish to hold out?

Please take a few minutes to email Senator the Honourable Joe Ludwig, Federal Minister for Agriculture, Fisheries & Forestry, about your concerns.

To bring the matter to wider public attention, you can email the letters editor of The Sydney Morning Herald and email the letters editors of the Sun Herald.

Alternatively, please cut and paste the following if you prefer to not write your own email:

I write to you to express my concern about the disappearance of farmland around Sydney. Many of the products that are now grown locally, such as fresh fruits and vegetables and chicken, appear on my dinner table regularly. Where will they come from if farming in the Sydney Basin disappears?

We already have water issues in other parts of the country and transport costs are rising. I do not wish to have fresh vegetables grown overseas as my only option and with dietary-related health issues costing more each year, how does this protect our long-term health and food security?

I look to you to take action to protect Sydney’s remaining urban farmland in perpetuity. We cannot afford to lose this vital source of food to urban sprawl.

Please keep me appraised of the action you are taking.

Sincerely,

Your name

Links
Hawkesbury Harvest

Some of you may remember our offering of magnificently-flavoured heirloom apples at the end of our first summer way back in 2003.

Having only been open for a few months, we were reviewed by ‘Good Living’ in The Sydney Morning Herald. The review was seen by Borry and Gaye Gartrell, heirloom fruit orchardists and winemakers who farm the slopes of Mt Canobolas outside Orange at an altitude of 1000 metres. My experience of community-supported agriculture, mentioned in the article, encouraged them to bring us some of their fabulous apple varieties and everyone raved about the beautiful, varying flavours of the fruit.

The vineyards running down the slopes of Mt Canobolas towards the lake

Nowadays, most apples are picked as early as possible. This gets them to market when the prices are higher and minimises potential for damage: the longer they hang on the trees, the more chances they’ll be eaten by birds and bats or made worthless by inclement weather. The trouble with the early harvesting approach though is that it doesn’t allow the fruit to develop its best flavour. Apples won’t ripen further once picked so leaving them on the tree is the only way to allow the fruit to develop its full potential.

In addition, like most fruits and vegetables, true heirloom varieties rarely make it to market. They were not bred with transport and cold storage uppermost in mind. While many, including the Granny Smith, were valued for their ability to be shipped long distances (sending apples to the UK out of season went on even a hundred years and more ago), their essential values were flavour. But when they’re picked under-ripe, that flavour profile is seriously compromised. In spite of the name of this business, Granny Smith apples were never my favourite apple variety, often being tart with a pale green, under-ripe flesh. But many years ago I tried a honey-core Granny Smith apple. Allowed to remain on the tree until early May, this was sensational. The core had turned an almost amber colour and was dripping when the apple was cut. The sweetness in the centre was balanced by the famous tartness nearer the skin, making a perfect balance. This was an apple that deserved a podium position. Unfortunately, with premiums generally only available for new season, as opposed to late season fruit, producing such standouts is not commercially viable.

I’ve been intending to go to Orange each year to get some more of this amazing fruit but being so busy, it never happened. That is, until last week, when I drove to Borry and Gaye’s specifically to get some of these apples for you. Though the main apple season is now mostly behind us, the last of the late season fruit is still on the trees, having grown slowly through the warmer months and now fully flavoured. I helped Borry pick three late season varieties: Democrats, Roman Beauties and King Davids. While the plums have all lost their leaves, the apples and cherries were still dressed in their summer outfits and a few of the apple trees stood out like Christmas trees, weighed down with great, red clusters of fruit. We headed along the row to these trees and picked them in the golden light of late afternoon, quickly filling a dozen or more boxes. Borry was a lot more judicious in discarding any apples that appeared “already visited” while I thought that any with just a small worm-hole or two could be used for cooking. When you’re getting these at the shop, blame me for any of these and remember that even a small hole or two indicates a desirable apple.

Almost the last of the season's apples

Borry and Gaye now focus on wine grapes. The apples and plums are just left to look after themselves, receiving no chemicals and only a prune every couple of years. Even so, Borry’s knowledge of apple and plum growing is extraordinary and while he’s maintaining the varieties, others, who should know better, have given up. When the Department of Agriculture decided to sell off some of the agricultural research station land at Bathurst a few years ago, on which a huge collection of heirloom plums had been established, Borry rescued as many as he could. Alas the department’s urgency meant that because of the time of the year, only cuttings from late season varieties could be rescued and many others were lost. In all the haste “to save taxpayers’ money”, some of our fruit heritage is now gone. Seems almost criminal to me. In countries like the US and the UK, heirloom fruits and vegetables are making a comeback but here in Australia, there is little apparent respect and demand for varieties that were cherished for generations.

While on the subject of the modern fruit supply and in an aside, let me tell you something about the things done to make fruit more available, in this example NSW cherries. Extending the cherry season, exporting the largest cherries possible and getting fruit to market first have encouraged the development of a cherry industry around Narromine in NSW.  This would traditionally be seen as a marginal cherry landscape. As the region is so warm, the trees need to be fooled into dormancy by spraying them with a defoliant so they drop their leaves in May and then spraying the trees with a white coating to reflect the winter warmth and keep the trees cooler. Then come end of winter they’re given another chemical dousing to encourage budding. It’s a very risky business but the rewards are great. Just when the planes stop flying from Los Angeles to Sydney laden with Washington and Oregon cherries, they start going back in the other direction laden with our fruit. As Borry said, “Get 31 mm cherries to Dubai and the world’s your oyster.”

In a couple of weeks, I’ll be heading back up to Orange for the last of Borrodell on the Mount’s Granny Smiths. By then, with any luck and a few frosts, they should have developed a honey core. I’ll be sure to let you know when they come in.

Healthy cows give healthy milk.

We are asked for raw milk several times a week. Whereas raw goats’ milk is legal to produce and sell for human consumption, cows’ milk is not. Regulations against its sale for human consumption are clear and our government has determined that its ingestion is potentially dangerous. We sell both types of milk here, though we must advise you that only raw goats’ milk is suitable for human consumption. The raw cows’ milk we sell is only for bathing. One suitable use might be to swirl no more than 1-2 tablespoons under the running water as the bath is filling. This makes its use very economical, especially with its reputed skin-softening properties.

It’s been pointed out before that the human race existed long before Louis Pasteur was around. You can find a lot of information about raw versus pasteurised milk online, including Food Standards Australia New Zealand’s working papers. Interestingly, despite working jointly on almost all food regulations, New Zealand is parting ways with Australia on this issue and is set to allow the production of all raw milk cheeses. It is not clear however that they will allow raw milk sales. Australia’s proposal is to possibly allow the production of hard cheeses using raw milk but stopping well short of permitting the manufacture and sale of soft cheeses or raw milk for human consumption.

Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, was recently in Australia. He reported having dinner with the Minister for Agriculture in Western Australia and pointed out that the cheese they were eating was made with raw milk in Europe and then imported. “Are Australians to be protected against the “dangers” of raw cheese made by Australians but okay eating raw cheese from Europe?” he asked. If you’d like to see Carlo Petrini’s speech at the Sydney Opera House in October, click here.

If you are interested in the issue of raw milk and raw cheese, you may like to sign the online petition organised by Slow Food Australia, which is being conducted by pioneering, beyond-organic farmer Michael Croft.

You can also find out more about this subject from Real Milk Australia, advocates of raw milk.

Note that the views expressed by Real Milk Australia are not necessarily those of Granny Smith Natural Food Market. We most certainly do not condone the consumption of raw cows’ milk.

Please remember that we do not advocate that you or any of your family drink raw cows’ milk. It is clearly sold as a bath milk only and you should be very careful to avoid getting any on or near your face when you’ve put it into your bathwater. Please be careful!